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Getting wrong and noisy data from TMP36

Relatively new to this, please be constructive. Trying to hook up a TMP36 temperature sensor to Arduino Nano Every to display real time temperature on a small OLED.
Display works great but reading the analog voltage is giving me a lot of yo-yo values, mostly way lower than could be correct. Temperature in my room is at least 75F but it's values are mostly hovering around 55F. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong with hooking it up or if my code is wrong.
The code surrounding the temp reading is practically a copy-paste from a YouTube instructional I found ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56mSzRLyuq4 ). The OLED code I wrote myself using the Adafruit example sketch as a guide.
I measured the voltage actually at the TMP36 when powered via Arduino on USB and read 4.79v so used that as my multiplier in case that was throwing it off somehow. When I try to probe the TMP36 output it seems stable at 0.61v but I don't know how often my inexpensive meter polls that.
I have the output of TMP36 on pin A0. I've checked polarity of it's power several times and tried swapping in a different TMP36 with the same result. Also tried adding a capacitor to the power rails of the breadboard and also tried adding a capacitor across the Vcc and GND of the tmp36 with no effect.

#include  #include  #include  #include  #define SCREEN_WIDTH 128 // OLED display width, in pixels #define SCREEN_HEIGHT 32 // OLED display height, in pixels #define voltSource 4.79 #define minX 0 #define minY 24 #define maxX 75 #define maxY 24 #define tempX 0 #define tempY 0 #define iconX 104 #define iconY 0 #define pin_tmp36 A0 #define pin_battery A1 #define lowBattery 3.0 int minTemp; int maxTemp; int nowTemp; // Declaration for an SSD1306 display connected to I2C (SDA, SCL pins) #define OLED_RESET 4 // Reset pin # (or -1 if sharing Arduino reset pin) Adafruit_SSD1306 display(SCREEN_WIDTH, SCREEN_HEIGHT, &Wire, OLED_RESET); #define LOGO_DIM 24 static const unsigned char PROGMEM snowflake24 [] = { 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x92, 0x00, 0x04, 0x54, 0x40, 0x14, 0x38, 0x50, 0x08, 0x10, 0x20, 0x34, 0x10, 0x58, 0x02, 0x10, 0x80, 0x01, 0x11, 0x00, 0x40, 0x7C, 0x02, 0x20, 0x82, 0x04, 0x10, 0x92, 0x08, 0x7F, 0xAB, 0xFE, 0x10, 0x92, 0x08, 0x20, 0x82, 0x04, 0x40, 0x7C, 0x02, 0x01, 0x11, 0x00, 0x02, 0x10, 0x80, 0x34, 0x10, 0x58, 0x08, 0x10, 0x20, 0x14, 0x10, 0x50, 0x04, 0x38, 0x40, 0x00, 0x54, 0x00, 0x00, 0x92, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, }; static const unsigned char PROGMEM battery24 [] = { 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x7F, 0xFF, 0xF8, 0x80, 0x00, 0x04, 0xA0, 0x00, 0x04, 0xA0, 0x00, 0x04, 0xB0, 0x00, 0x02, 0xB0, 0x00, 0x01, 0xB8, 0x00, 0x01, 0xB8, 0x00, 0x01, 0xBC, 0x00, 0x02, 0xBC, 0x00, 0x04, 0xBE, 0x00, 0x04, 0x80, 0x00, 0x04, 0x7F, 0xFF, 0xF8, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, }; void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); // SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC = generate display voltage from 3.3V internally if (!display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, 0x3C)) { // Address 0x3C for 128x32 // Serial.println(F("SSD1306 allocation failed")); for (;;); // Don't proceed, loop forever } // Show initial display buffer contents on the screen -- // the library initializes this with an Adafruit splash screen. display.display(); delay(2000); // Pause for 2 seconds //some display settings display.setTextColor(SSD1306_WHITE); // Draw white text display.cp437(true); // Use full 256 char 'Code Page 437' font pinMode(pin_tmp36, INPUT); pinMode(pin_battery, INPUT); readTemp(); minTemp = nowTemp; //initial value maxTemp = nowTemp; //initial value } void loop() { readTemp(); display.clearDisplay(); display.setTextSize(3); display.setCursor(tempX, tempY); display.print(round(nowTemp), 0); display.write(248); display.print("F"); display.setTextSize(1); display.setCursor(minX, minY); display.print("MIN:"); display.print(round(minTemp), 0); display.write(248); display.print("F"); display.setCursor(maxX, maxY); display.print("MAX:"); display.print(round(maxTemp), 0); display.write(248); display.print("F"); drawIcon(); display.display(); Serial.println("\n"); delay(30000); //delay between updates } void readTemp() { float analogReading = analogRead(pin_tmp36); Serial.print("analogReading="); Serial.println(analogReading); float tmp36Volt = analogReading * voltSource / 1023.0; Serial.print("voltConvert="); Serial.println(tmp36Volt); nowTemp = convertF((tmp36Volt - 0.5) * 100); Serial.print("nowTemp="); Serial.println(nowTemp); minTemp = min(minTemp, nowTemp); maxTemp = max(maxTemp, nowTemp); } float readBattery() { return (analogRead(pin_battery) * voltSource / 1023.0); } float convertF (float celsius) { return ((celsius * 1.8) + 32); } void drawIcon() { if (readBattery() <= lowBattery) { //low battery warning priority over all else display.drawBitmap(iconX, iconY, battery24, LOGO_DIM, LOGO_DIM, 1); } else if (nowTemp <= 32.0) { //snowflake icon below freezing display.drawBitmap(iconX, iconY, snowflake24, LOGO_DIM, LOGO_DIM, 1); } } 

submitted by rawaka to arduino

Alienware RTX 3090 (Aurora R11) - General Information

Re-posting since I think its good information and I can't link to the original thread.
I am doing a quick post about my findings with the Aurora R11 and the Dell/Alienware RTX 3090.
It gets hot in the original case, I have decided to pull it out of the Aurora R11 and put it in a custom build. I still thought I would share some public information that's missing from their website, only found on their forums, or just a bit misleading.
It isn't using water cooling - the RAD 2nd slot cooler. There is no RAD cooler option at this time and no plans for one yet - despite it advertised everywhere during the build process.
I confirmed this directly from Asetek before hand (hence preparing a custom build) but went ahead with the purchase since you can't get RTX 3090s anywhere... so what is frustrating is this card really needs cooling.
You are limited to PCI-E 3.0 8x in the Aurora R11.
Judging by benchmarks before and after could be around a perf difference of 0-10% for this card - but its difficult to gauge since its within the margins of error but leaning towards the low end of scores. It felt like I was right at the cusp of RTX 3090 saturating an PCI-E 3.0 at 8x but its not definitive. I was really put off by this at first with Alienware but testing really showed it performs somewhat okay. You will not be winning any benchmarks for sure.
3DMark stock Aurora R11 baseline benchmark
No room for pushing the GPU performance with OC. This, realistically, could be for several reasons, power draw, heat, silicon lottery - but it looked like heat/power throttling so that boost clock was a lower sustained value and that was the main drawback.
As you can see outside that case, I was able to get a small sustained boost clock and increased the performance. 3DMark custom build + small OC
As you can see, the Alienware performed pretty good out of the box.
I wasn't happy with CPU thermals, so I took the CPU and delidded it and replaced it with a copper IHS but it wasn't necessary. It would have worked fine in the case and there was only some minor throttling (CPU) past 75c but overtime could be problematic.
I don't think there is any voltage firmware/throttling but I can't tell based on available data. Most scores can be readily overclocked far beyond what my system can do on air. All the top scores are only on H2O and LN2 right now. I also failed the silicon lottery for the i9 10900KF so it won't go above 5.0 GHz on this motherboard. The average clocks on 3DMark seem to be 5.1+ GHz and crazy high uncores etc. all of that feeding this hungry GPU.
The GPU is a 2.5 slot card. Making it by my observation the smallest 3090 on the market to date... and it is a fully fleshed out card! It doesn't appear to be gimped in anyway... except for power.
Tom's Hardware has better images than my phone so here.
Image 1
Image 2
It is also a 2x8-pin connection, meaning its maximum wattage is 375w, which gives it only 25w for power increase wiggle room. The are also about 2 inches from the end of the card, inward.
The cooling solution is a dual fan (internal case heat generation) but it does keep up with the theme of pushing hot air vertically. In my non-professional opinion, I think it performs well but it isn't the prettiest (there are a couple of cables that look a bit squeezed and exposed for the fans.)
In the Alienware R11, average temperatures were higher on the GPU so this cooling system is dependent on receiving in fresh cool air as fast possible and also exhausting the air fast enough. There is no exhaust fan other than the CPU RAD fan. So all heat will be added to your CPU.
Alienware R11 Aurora 3DMark11 TimeSpy: 68c.
NZXT H710i 3DMark11 TimeSpy: 51c. My case has a lot of fresh air and exhaust with 3 intake, 1 exhaust, and 3 radiator fans on the roof.
I also tested Call of Duty Modern Warfare TDM for hours - I hit 80-82c (a limit I think) - consistently on Alienware and in my case I never went above 69c. Both systems used a GSYNC (3440x1440) monitor and frame capped to 120 FPS and both achieved 120 FPS consistently without dipping.
I didn't do a million tests - I had enough data to convince me its too hot for my personal liking. You may be perfectly okay with it - I am not judging.
There is an all white GEFORCE RTX led on the side (doesn't say 3090). The PCB is classic green - no frills. The SLI tabs ARE included and not covered up meaning you could in theory SLI with that fancy NVHEVSLI thingy - but don't and save your money. Does come with a black backplate.
The firmware is of Dell/Alienware. Details
The memory is produced by Micron.
Works with a few of the GPU tweakers, ASUS GPU Tweak II, EVGA Precision X, etc.
So... those are the facts.
Here are my opinions. Despite me loving the design aesthetics (I have the laptop and monitors) it is over priced - for what you are actually getting - but I think we all know that to a certain degree.
The cooling solution (accounting for the entire case), in my opinion, is functional but honestly inadequate. It performs okay on paper but suspect overheating issues maybe prevalent with this build down the line. Maybe not the first month, but give it some time - and summer more importantly - and you may have some throttling. Dell already confirmed this when they collaborated with Asetek to invent a new way to cool down video cards with a hybrid AIO GPU RAD cooler (that was also a fan blower) so reverting back to NOT that means they solved nothing and without a blower, the heat will build up in that lower back pocket (or lower left corner if looking at it from the side).
If you convince yourself to buy this desktop, here are my honest recommendations to keep it performing well. First off, you will need fans, 2-4 ML120 Corsairs - the mag lev ones (I have done my research and other fans can prevent even bootup). This will also help with the fans incredibly loud noise.
First, take down the AIO rad and make the AIO rad PUSH/PULL with the two new fans. The AIO itself is actually quite good for what it is but its only a single 120M RAD so give it some help. Other ways you could improve cooling performance on the CPU, is to get a ROCKITCOOL delid kit where you can get a direct to die conversion or convert to Copper IHS like I did. The i9 10900KF has the TIM solder though, so you have to take extra care removing it - you can use a hair drier to warm it up first but the kit worked fine without it - just take your time and make sure you have a good liquid metal TIM placed cleanly on the die (and IHS). It dropped temperatures avg. 9c in my custom build (measured before and after) but disclosure I didn't measure in the R11 before and after. Getting that TIM off with Quicksilver (safer than a razor blade) will require q-tips, elbow grease, patience and follow the instructions.
Second, unscrew remove the hard drive bay, add a second intake fan there (there is only one intake FAN and yes the PSU will get in some of the way but just do it!) You may need an Y-extension cable - not all the headers on the board are usable. If you feel extra frisky replace the other fan up front to another ML120 (or better performing solution like Noctua if it works).
Optionally, perform case modifications to make some holes for additional fans or just leave the side off. Modifying cases is relatively simple requiring a Dremel for small bit cutting and a drill for make M2 fan holes etc just have to make sure you can power them - which there are dozens of ways of adhocing fans even without a motherboard that supports headers. I just opted for just a custom build myself, replacing the CPU and GPU and giving my son a massive upgrade over his old machine. I was able to rationalize this purchase solely because I planned to have two computers anyway so YMMV.
submitted by RagingCain to pcmasterrace

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